Dublin, Ireland

This is Gogarty's.  A traditional Irish pub just down the street from our hotel on Temple Bar road.  It's over by Trinity College, and a couple blocks from where Obama will speak tonight.  I slipped in here on my own, and soon got swept up in the celebration.  It was packed, playing the traditional songs, and I met so many great people, including the band.  Yes, a little River Dance exhibition as well.  Very fun.  A great place, and a great evening.  I felt home.

Today, Obama is in town, and last week it was Queen Elizabeth.  I very big week for politics here.  On another note, it was a en epic rugby championship, where Leinster's home team snatched a victory from the jaws of defeat.  I'm not an experienced rugby fan, but even I was caught up in the miraculous recovery from a 5-22 halftime deficit to an outrageous 33-22 win.  Absolutely incredible, and the young Jonny Sexton was the hero.  Christian, all I could think of, was you.

Guinness is a big part of this city, and country I would say.  It's a celebration, a way of life.  We toured the factory.  It's such big business (the beer and the tour), they've converted the original factory into a lavish museum of sorts, with a 360 degree-glassed-in bar at the top of the 7 story structure.  A great vantage point overlooking the city.

There's plenty of culture here, as well as a distinguished literary history.  Moira, here's to you.  A little tribute to James Joyce, with a couple of readings this week.

This is to you, Mike and Kathy -guess the sir name :-)    We were out walking around and coincidentally ran into this place.  As it seems to be everywhere, a very friendly, unassuming atmosphere.  I could get used to this.  Okay, I am used to it.  We had a good chat with the bartender, who shared much of the bar's history, including Hillary's visit a couple years ago, as well as some details about how some of the literary greats used to hang out in our very midst.

 As it turns out, our cabbie from the airport was a tour bus driver a few years ago.  We were lucky to get a bit of the blarney on our way in.  The flags on the front of the hotel are with respect to President Obama's visit today.  He'll be speaking about a block from our hotel.  You can see an inkling of the security involved, with the street barriers in the foreground.  In the distance you can see a spire, I have to refresh my memory on what it commemorates.  Something like 600 meters tall!

A tiny vision of the security detail in the city.  I heard 10,000 officers.  They've been building the stage, and blockades since we've been here.  An amazing amount of concern for the safety of the US President.  The bartender said it was even more-so for the Queen's visit a couple days prior.  The first visit of the queen since Ireland declared her independence some 140 or so years ago.  Truly a momentous occasion, and those who've discussed it, were moved, and very positive about it.  One of the highlights, a bow by the queen in the Garden of Remembrance.  She also started her speech in Gaelic, another genuine heartfelt moment for the locals, and I must admit, even made me a little emotional just hearing about it.  (Moira, Sarah, quit giggling!)

Guinness surge.  As the nitrogen escapes, it creates a cascading surge.  A very unique and delicious aspect of the famous beer from Ireland.

St Paddy's Day plans

Today is another Jib Jab first.  I'm actually planning a post, before I've cooked it.  I am feeling a bit under the weather, so I am thinking about St Paddy's day.  I am thinking lamb stew, Irish soda bread, and not sure from there.  Yes, of course some Guinness.  And I haven't figured out the potato and cabbage recipes yet.  I am watching a Bobby Flay show on the food channel as we speak - he's full blooded Irish, and the show is on the food history of Ireland...let's see what we come up with. 

So, 92% of beer in Ireland is consumed in the Pubs.  Pub food is only 25 years old!- since the 70s... wait, the math seems to be not too robust there... Ireland is more relaxed than America.  Guinness has 70% of the beer market in Ireland.  The largest brewery in Europe. Irish Literature; Yates, Joyce, Beckett - drinkers with writing problems... gotta understand the pub culture...  Sir Walter Raleigh brought potatoes to Ireland in the 1600s, from America.  Then, they ate 10-12 pounds of potato per person per day before the blight.    Potatoes col-cannon.  Today, 300 pounds per person per year.  Red rooster potatoes are Irish.  Rice the potatoes.  York cabbage....deep fried potato bacon cabbage...brown bread...smoked salmon...the salt goes on the fillet to kill any bacteria, and draw the moisture to the surface before smoking...smoking takes a day or two or three.    Dorina Allen, Ballyboe Irish house cooking.  Bacon and cabbage is the Irish national food.  sliced cabbage, butter, cook with herbs.  scallion champ?  bacon, cabbage.    Ester Barron, Baron's bakery.  Waterford county.  Crystal.  Tea.  Jameson.  Irish are more like Mediterraneans than Europeans.  10,000 pubs are in Ireland. Tullamore Dew, Ireland. 

One last note.  What's the difference between Scotch and Irish whiskey?  A couple things.  Some I remember:  Irish uses some non-malted barley, and Scotch is all malted.  Irish malted barley is dried in kilns, whereas scotch is malted over peat bog fires.  Also, scotch is typically distilled twice.  Irish whiskey 3 times minimum.  So, to the single malt story.  There is no such version of Irish whiskey.  By definition, it has different types of barley used.  Malted barley, and raw.

I am thinking about Ireland again, from my mutt ancestry, I am mostly Irish, from my dad's side and 25% on mom's side.  My dad has a bit of a secret family history, which he really hasn't shared much of (hence the secrets).  There is definitely some severe mental illness involved, and probably other secret things as well.   I have heard bits and pieces.  It brings up strong emotions, and in general, has been dealt with by ignoring it, or at least not talking about it.   Well, my dad doesn't talk much all together.  Not sure if that's all part of the plan or just him.  All that said, I am curious about my Irish heritage.  I would love to go there, some day soon.

Okay, just thinking out loud on the menu, grocery store wise-
lamb - safeway or a better butcher
do i need oatmeal, wheat flour for the bread?
potatoes, carrots, ruddebeggas, turnips, barley, parsley for the stew, beef stock
potatoes and cabbage for the potatoes and cabbage
leeks?
lamb chop appetizers?
Anyways, that's it for now.

It was a totally beautifully sunny warm day, and I was gonna go riding, but felt too achy, headache, bla bla bla.  Oh well, hopefully I will be better soon.